A Sign of the Impending Beer Apocalypse?

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I received a press release today for something I would never have thought possible: a blueberry beer dinner. The good folks at the Cambridge Common restaurant here in Cambridge, Mass host a lot of solid beer events and focus on promoting good beer here in the Boston area. I can’t decide if this event is just another example of the restaurant’s dedication to good beer or some frightening omen. In any event, here are the details:

When: Thursday, August 9th, 6:30pm
Where: Cambridge Common Restaurant
Contact: Suzanne Schalow, 617.547.1228

The Dinner begins at 6:30 with a taste of Atlantic Brewing’s Bar Harbor Blueberry.

The first course of the evening is Cold Blueberry Soup with Fresh Mint; paired with Newport Brewing’s Rhode Island Blueberry Ale.

Next in line is a Mixed Green Salad with Lime Vinaigrette and Fresh Blueberries; paired with Sea Dog Blue Paw Wheat Ale.

The third course of the evening is a Slow-Roasted Half Chicken with Homemade Blueberry BBQ Sauce, Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes, and Haricot Vert; paired with Sebago Bass Ackwards Berryblue Ale.

Finally, the dessert course offers Cheesecake with Blueberry Sauce & Fresh Whipped Cream; paired with Wachusett Blueberry Ale.

Tickets for the event are $35 (excluding tax & gratuity). Reservations a must, by calling Cambridge Common Restaurant, 617.547.1228.

Cambridge Common is honored to be your favorite neighborhood restaurant and local beer & burger bar ~ we have 24 beers on tap, 12 of which rotate like nobody’s business, plenty of kick-ass bottles, and a sizzlin’ burger for only $4.95. We dedicate a tremendous amount of time researching the latest & greatest brews and how to make them available to YOU! You can find us on Mass Ave, halfway between Harvard & Porter Squares, on the red line.

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Here’s To Beer: The Tom Shipley Interview

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Beer taking a backseat to wine in terms of consumer preference? Not a chance brewers thought. But when the Gallup Organization released its annual alcohol consumption report in July 2005, American’s brewers were dumbstruck. For the first time in the poll’s history, wine edged out beer as the selected drink of choice. This trend had been on the rise, but the results were still shocking. Newspapers and magazines used the news to take a swipe at brewers and to herald the death of beer.

Executives at Anheuser-Busch decided the industry needed to address beer’s sudden public image problem. With 50-percent market share, the brewery has a lot to lose if beer continued to slide in terms of customer preference. In response, the brewery created and launched a highly publicized effort designed to elevate public opinion and appreciation of beer. The ‘Here’s To Beer’ campaign debuted in February 2006 with a Super Bowl ad. Sponsored in conjunction with the Beer Institute, the ‘Slante’ ad showed beer drinkers clinking glasses and offering toasts in a multitude of locations and languages.

Nearly a year later, many industry observers wondered aloud about the future of the campaign. Shortly thereafter, A-B implemented the second phase of Here’s To Beer. In March 2007, the HTB website was overhauled, with web video added as well as an interactive educational component called ‘The Beer Connoisseur.� The campaign also recently released American Brew, a documentary on the history of American brewing by filmmaker Roger Sherman.

For the rest of the beer industry, the Here’s To Beer campaign has been slowly building grassroots industry support by way of its point-of-sale materials offered on HTBmarketing.com. As part of HTB’s second phase, A-B is hoping to secure greater industry support with this campaign, which allows wholesalers, distributors, and retailers of all affiliations to create customized print ads for local newspapers and signs and other promotional materials for accounts. According to A-B, more than 300 wholesalers have signed on to the program so far.

I recently spoke with Tom Shipley, director of Global Industry Development at Anheuser Busch, about the second phase of the Here’s To Beer campaign, its cool reception among other brewers, and about the campaign’s effort to secure greater industry involvement for their goal of elevating the public’s perception of beer.

Andy Crouch: To start, why don’t you tell us a little about how the Here’s To Beer campaign got started.

Tom Shipley: That would go back to the end of the summer in 2005. All of 2005 and at the end of 2004, there were lots of negative stories in the general media about beer. We sort of hit this perfect storm of slight declines in share of total alcohol coupled with a Gallup Poll, which we could argue with Gallup on the validity of that poll. They polled a thousand people that summer of 2005 and about four-hundred of them said they were underage or didn’t drink, so then they had a pool of about six-hundred people. Then they asked the six-hundred people who were left, ‘What form of alcohol do you prefer?� It was widely touted by Gallup, ‘Now more people prefer wine to beer.� You and I both know the reality of that. People behave one way and might have an attitude another way. So there was an opportunity to work on people’s attitudes. Too many of those six hundred people thought the correct answer was wine even though their behavior indicated that two out of three of them were more likely beer drinkers.

We saw an opportunity to address that, to set the record straight about the sheer size of the beer category and to remind them that it is 57 or 58-percent of total alcohol. But also to set the record straight because that Gallup Poll, some declines, as well as some pretty aggressive PR by the hard liquor industry started to drive a lot of media stories. One was even on the cover of the Advertising Age. It was a gravestone that said ‘Beer R.I.P’ and the headline was ‘Beer is Dead.’ That really motivated us to action.

August Busch IV asked my boss Bob Lachky to put together a group that would be focused on the beer category from a PR and ad perspective, which we got to with the rollout of the Super Bowl commercial in 2006. And to get aggressive with industry groups and constituents that we identified as influencers. We’ve done speeches to the usual suspects, the Brewers Association and the Beer Institute and state wholesaler groups across the country, but also to academic groups across the country, press clubs, and any media we can get an audience with. We talk about the size of the category, to set the record straight and also the variety and styles of beer and how well they pair with food.

The overall objective is to elevate and enhance the image of beer and it’s evolved into a pretty powerful platform. We’ve been pleased with the response from the craft community and from other brewers. Now in the beginning there was some things about who is supporting the campaign and who is not supporting it. I think that by and large everybody supports it but it just depends on how you define support. If support is sending a check to Anheuser-Busch to help fund this thing, nobody supports it. If support is activating the press with the materials we have on HTB marketing, I think we have support from about 300 beer wholesalers and brewers outside of our A-B system.

AC: I read an interview recently in which Bob Lachky [A-B’s Executive Vice President of Global Industry Development] said that the brewery was looking to “go it alone� on the campaign. Can you talk about the early days of the HTB initiative and what efforts were undertaken to get other industry players on board?

TS: In the earliest days, we took a hard look at other industry campaigns, such as ‘Beef, it’s what’s for dinner,’ ‘Pork, the other white meat,’ ‘the Incredible, Edible Egg,’ and ‘Got Milk?’ All of those things are check-off programs, which basically mean that all the dairy and beef producers contribute a certain amount of pennies per pound or gallon of milk they sell and it goes into a big fund. That’s how those are funded. Looking back, maybe it was a little naïve to think, ‘Hey, why don’t all of us throw into this fund and we’ll put the people behind it to run the campaign?’ We did that through the Beer Institute. It was successful in that the Beer Institute, through a vote of all its members, said it would support the first Super Bowl ad through the perspective of PR, press conferences, and media outreach. It was something that through the Beer Institute we support. Beyond that, where we went in to have everything contribute money or convert some of our media—that’s where, looking back, we decided to go it alone. Those that decided not to put money into it helped us make that decision. Then looking back, if you think about it, any kind of creative endeavor especially where it is advertising, the fewer number of decision points the more efficient the process is.

AC: I know there was some grumbling in the industry, and especially in the craft market, about Anheuser-Busch and its possible motives for doing an ad campaign like this. Are you at all disappointed that there hasn’t been more industry support?

TS: I agree with you that in the very beginning there was grumbling but I think the campaign has sort of proven itself to those that have criticized it. I haven’t heard anything from those critics in the last year…It’s telling that there hasn’t been any criticism. It’s really neat to read some of the threads lately from the Beer Advocate folks. There has been more than one that has said, ‘Well maybe they’re really trying to grow the pot.’ Disappointment is long gone and has been replaced with pride and validation in the campaign. We knew all along that it’s a campaign to elevate and enhance the image of beer. If a ‘critic’ says, ‘You’re just trying to grow the beer category because you guys have almost half the category’ we have to say, ‘Guilty as charged.’ That is true and we’re not really trying to hide that. It’s pretty public knowledge the share we have in total beer. I think it’s also telling that a big part of this campaign, you can see it in print and in television spots, is to educate people about the wide variety of beers. That includes beers of all different flavors, styles, and colors. The majority of what we sell, let’s face it, is in the American Lager and American Light Lager categories. But you’re seeing us really emphasize other categories and other styles. Part of the reason we’re doing that is to elevate and enhance beer…When you about what the average consumer thinks about wine, if you could take that average consumer twenty years ago they could probably tell you there are two types of wine: red wine and white wine. Now that average consumer may not know every specific geography and style but they certainly know there is more than just red and white wine.

AC: Tell me about how the American Brew movie project got started?

TS: That goes back to about the time when our group got started in the Fall of 2005. Ken Burns approached Anheuser-Busch, as I’m sure he approached other companies, looking for corporate sponsorship of his next major project…As we we’re in discussions about the sponsorship, we suggested it would be great to do a history or documentary on beer…Ken recommended his partner at Florentine Films, Roger Sherman. He has a rich body of work himself, an award-winning documentarian. We met Roger and quickly came to terms and commissioned a documentary about beer. The name of the project, who was interviewed, how the story was told was all in the editorial control of Roger. We gave him a lot of leeway and I think that comes through in telling the history of beer and the renaissance of beer today.

AC: I know the Here’s To Beer campaign also has an industry component.

TS: We’re going to continue to work internally, in the industry, to invite and encourage more people to get on HTBmarketing.com and download materials. Herestobeer.com and HTBmarketing.com essentially started at the same time in February 2006. Herestobeer.com had lots of traffic with a slow decline over the next eighteen months. It’s shot up again since we changed it and the numbers are going up. The numbers at HTBmarketing.com since the beginning have continued to increase and we’re seeing an increase in downloads. You can download point-of-sale materials and print it out to merchandise the category. The lowest hanging fruit there is for wholesalers to merchandise retail accounts or retailers to merchandise their own accounts with this beer themed point of sale, it’s not branded point of sale. It’s for accounts that historically have not wanted any beer advertising in their stores because it doesn’t have the image that fits with their store. When the wholesalers present them with the new materials with a different look, not branded and just about beer and beer styles, that is where they are getting a yes and getting the opportunity to merchandise accounts. People should get on HTBmarketing.com. All people have to do is tell us who they are and where they work and they get a username and password. They can then go ahead and find opportunities to use the materials.

For the campaign, the big push is to be more entertaining on Herestobeer.com. That will continue to change and inform and be more fun. Then there is this platform of pairing beer with food. It will help general consumers to understand that beer pairs with food in many cases better than wine pairs with food, but I guess we have to crawl before we walk.

–Article appeared in the July 2007 issue of Beverage Magazine.

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Here’s To (Respecting) Beer!

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For beer advocates who engage in daily public relations campaigns in the name of better beer, the issue of respect is paramount. These dedicated enthusiasts spread the good news about their love of beer to others one pint at a time. They sidle up to strangers in pubs to influence what they’re drinking, listen stealthily when orders are considered, and at just the right time they offer praise for their favorite local brewery or beer.

For a long time, America’s biggest brewers didn’t seem particularly interested in helping this rag-tag band of beer missionaries spread the gospel of respecting beer. The big guys had their own agenda and it often involved promoting beer through flatulent horses, talking frogs, and bikini-clad twins. And for a long time, the T&A advertising strategy worked well with the beer pong and bong crowd. But then something happened: consumers started to care what beverages other people saw them drinking. Beer’s sales and overall market share stalled and then contracted. Newspaper and magazine stories heralded the death of beer.

The big brewers freaked at the news. After years of following the same crass marketing playbook, beer suddenly had a bad image and a black eye. In a remarkable confession to the Wall Street Journal, Miller’s marketing chief Tom Long took responsibility for the problem. “People will tell you that beer is not sophisticated enough, or stylish enough, to compete with wine and spirits,â€? he told the journal. “Why do they think that? Well, I believe it’s because we told them to.â€?

America’s largest brewer was nearly scared straight by beer’s alarming decline. With 50-percent market share, Anheuser-Busch had good reason to be concerned and its executives decided against simply changing a few ads. Instead, the company launched a highly publicized effort designed to elevate public opinion and appreciation of beer.

HTBThe ‘Here’s To Beer’ campaign debuted in February 2006 with a high-profile Super Bowl ad showing beer drinkers clinking glasses and offering toasts in a multitude of locations and languages. A-B approached other brewers to seek their input and support for the campaign but with little success. Miller and Coors declined the invitation to participate and larger craft brewers remained skeptical about A-B’s dedication and ability to promote respect for beer. A few print ads followed the television spot, but soon thereafter the campaign went dormant.

Nearly a year later, and with many media types wondering aloud about the future of the campaign, A-B released the second phase of Here’s To Beer. In March, the HTB website was overhauled, with web video added as well as a useful interactive educational component called ‘The Beer Connoisseur.’ The campaign also released American Brew, an admirable and historically balanced documentary on the history of American brewing by filmmaker Roger Sherman that premiered on the History Channel in April.

While A-B’s efforts have made some significant contributions to public appreciation for beer, the HTB campaign has occasionally lost focus on its focal point: respecting beer. Of all efforts associated with the recent relaunch of HTB, one of the most advertised was a video series featuring a comedian playing several historical characters. With its rich traditions and history, the features could be mined for both laughs and respectful moments about beer.

The initial spots fail tragically on all counts. In one video, visitors are invited to enjoy a beer with, of all people, Genghis Khan. The Mongolian conqueror begins by complaining about his undeserved “bad rap.� He whines that just because “you plunder a few villages and sodomize the inhabitants� that everybody thinks you’re a bad guy. He continues his tirade by talking about buggery and invites the visitor to assault the bar “wench� when she comes by. While a beer sits next to him on the table, he never references it. The Ben Franklin spot, in which the founding father talks about go-go dancers at Studio 54 and his desire to “impregnate the barmaid tonight,� fares no better. At least Franklin actually drinks the beer in between telling you that “Poor Richard was almost called Big Richard if you know what I’m talking about.�

Now if I was watching an ad for Bud Light, I might not give a second thought to the crassness of the history spots. Even if you find Genghis’s rant hilarious, if your sole purpose is to elevate public appreciation of beer, associating it with anal rape and bar maid assaults hardly seems the best way to generate respect.

While the HTB campaign isn’t perfect, the failure of Miller or Coors to make this an industry-wide initiative is disappointing to say the least. Smaller craft brewers, including the Boston Beer Company, can only do so much to promote public appreciation of beer. In the face of gains made by spirits and wine producers, the bigger brewers need to recognize this is a time for industry unity. Beer advocates can’t achieve true public respect for their favorite beverage if the biggest players continue to publicly disrespect beer.

–A version of this article appeared in the June 2007 issue of BeerAdvocate Magazine.

PostScript: After I conducted a lengthy interview with Tom Shipley, director of Global Industry Development at Anheuser Busch, the Genghis Khan spot I discuss here disappeared from the Here’s To Beer website. It was replaced with a spot that does not contain much of the content I criticized in the column.

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Judging Beer: What Is A Medal Really Worth?

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In the shadow of George Ferris’s massive wheel at the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition, one of the earliest beer judging disputes brewed. More than twenty brewers vied for the top prize, with Anheuser-Busch’s Budweiser and an offering from the Pabst Brewing Company splitting several awards. The competition ended in controversy, with the Pabst beer narrowly besting Budweiser. Fast-forward a century, Pabst Blue Ribbon is still milking that slender victory.

While beer competitions have long been controversial, medals and awards seem as plentiful as caps on bottles. With countless accolades slapped on the side of six-packs, consumers are wise to learn about a competition’s methods before they plunk down their money on an “award-winning� beer.

Beer, by its very nature, is an inherently subjective commodity and quality can’t be determined by simply hooking up a pint to a machine. To bring order to the chaotic world of judging beer, there are two main approaches: let everyone pick their favorite or establish some ground rules. Because the fickle results of popularity contests change frequently and provide drinkers with little concrete information, the structured competitions tend to be the more respected.

Style guidelines distinguish meaningful competitions from your local county fair by removing a large degree of the subjectivity from the evaluation of beer. Two of the highest regarded competitions are the Great American Beer Festival and the World Beer Cup, both run by the Brewers Association. GABFMedal These events deserve respect for the sheer number of entries (2400 for the GABF, 2200 for WBC) and the use of strict style guidelines by professional judges in a blind process. The Brewers Association’s 2007 guidelines recognize a mind-blowing 125 different styles, with painstaking descriptions of each category of beer. The downside for non-conformist brewers in these competitions is that style selection is critical. Enter your beer in the wrong category and an otherwise flawless beer may come home empty-handed.

But even when judges follow style guidelines, consumers can’t blindly rely on the results. For example, The Great International Beer Festival, held annually in Rhode Island oddly promotes itself as America’s largest international beer festival, although it judged a whopping fourteen imported entries from six countries last year. While the competition might otherwise be strong, it’s hardly a cage match between the world’s greatest beers.

Consumers also need to be discerning about contests sponsored by private organizations. Of these events, perhaps the best known is the World Beer Championships run by the Beverage Testing Institute in Chicago. BTI’s medal-based competition is run a bit differently from other events, with less weight placed on style adherence and more on a brewer’s creativity within a certain category. In a laudable twist, the institute’s respectable panel of judges tastes products throughout the year instead of packing all beer judging into less than a week of sessions.

BTIThe way an organization awards medals can also be a telling aspect of how consumers should value the honor when choosing a beer. The BTI contest employs the familiar 100-point scale to score beers and awards platinum (96-100), gold (90-95), silver (86-89), and bronze medals (80-84). Beers that fall below 80 points receive a ‘not recommended’ finding. Of the 1650 beers in BTI’s database, only 53 have been rated below 80 points and would fail to snag at least a bronze medal. The BTI event reminds me of a little of a correspondence school where you mail a check for fifty bucks and they send you back a medical degree.

No competition is perfect though, and even the Brewers Association’s events have areas of concern. In past years, both the GABF and the WBC have given out medals in categories with as few as three or five entries, in contrast to the vast majority of categories which have more than twenty competitors. In such cases, winning a bronze medal in a contest of only three brands is not as impressive as the title may imply.

So if even the best competitions have flaws, should we ever care about medals and awards? Winning medals doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll like the beer, and many great beers never win anything. But with a little exploration, you may discover that some medal winners you’ve never tried surely deserve the accolades. So when faced with a beer boasting its accomplishments, remember to first check the age and whereabouts of the win. Was it a county fair in 1989 or the WBC in 2006? Has the beer won GABF medals twice in recent years? Repeat GABF winners in craft beer styles are usually sure-fire good choices. While things have come a long way from the sordid days of the blue ribbon controversy, consumers can do their part to keep breweries from boasting about 100-year-old victories.

–A version of this article appeared in the May issue of BeerAdvocate Magazine.
–For BTI’s tongue-in-cheek response to my article, view my award.

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Six ways bars can better respect beer…

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Respecting beer doesn’t mean your restaurant or bar has to jettison its popular wine-by-the-glass program.  We’re not alcohol segregationists here at BeerAdvocate Magazine.  But you should stop and spend a little time thinking about the role beer plays in your establishment.  Do you spend more time contemplating dishwasher clogs?  That’s not entirely surprising.  Bar owners are busy people and many simply pick the six or eight most popular draft brands and call it a day.  In the spirit of promoting beer and your sales, here is a six-pack of ideas on how you can improve your beer program.

Number 1: Provide Beer Menus

It’s the first question beer lovers have upon entering any bar or restaurant: what’s on tap?  For all of the regularity, it’s surprising how difficult the question is to answer.  Customers shouldn’t have to make a breeze-by of the tap handles just to hunt down their selections.  So create a beer menu, it doesn’t have to be fancy.  Good beer guides include an updated list of available beers, a concise description of each beer or style, and the price.  The best beer guides describe the brewing process and how to taste and enjoy beer.  At Sheffield’s in Chicago, the handy beer guide offers straightforward descriptions and also provides a glossary of technical terms associated with brewing and enjoying beer.  At Monk’s Cafe in Philadelphia, the faded beer guides avoid beer descriptions, opting instead for style notes and notices for upcoming events.

Number 2: Use Proper Glassware

Bar owners have slowly come to realize that beer’s inherent beauty is something they can both appreciate and sell.  Where simple Shaker pint glasses once ruled the bar, a bevy of oddly shaped glassware now matches the great range of beers available.  The value of putting on a show when presenting beer cannot be understated.  Big, shapely hefe-weizen glasses and rolling strong ale snifters make instant impressions on nearby customers.  Beer is a multi-sensory experience and the process of promoting beer doesn’t end when the customer orders.

Number 3: Train Your Staff

Smart breweries, wholesalers, and restaurateurs know that servers are the frontline soldiers in the war for better beer sales.  Owners expect the waitstaff to know the food menu, so why shouldn’t they be able to describe the available beers?  No need for a long soliloquy on the gentle interplay of malts and hops, just some straight facts.  First, know what is available.  I’m amazed at how often when I ask what’s available, the response comes back, “We have everything.�  Excellent, I’ll take the Thomas Hardy 1975 vintage.  Second, servers should never simply ask, “Light or dark?�  Servers should know the list, where the beers hail from, and be able to offer some quick descriptive thoughts.

Number 4: Offer Samples

This could just as easily fit under server training as it’s another way to interact with customers.  The best servers can sense when a customer wants to trade-up to a better beer.  Consumers who practice beer monogamy are not adventurous by nature so we need to strike when the chance presents itself.  Offering a sample to customers who pause over a beer list is good business.  Samples also give servers the chance to test out their beer knowledge and shine.

Number 5: Add A Local Draft Line

It’s as simple as it sounds.  If you’re like most bars, you offer a few macro standards on tap and round out the selection with Guinness, Bass, Harp, and maybe even Stella Artois.  Why send all your love to cash-flush European conglomerates when you can support your local brewery?  You know who I’m talking about.  Your local brewer is the guy who comes in every other week begging for a line.  Why not give him a shot?  Which brings us to…

Number 6: Hold Beer Events

Beer events were once the limited province of beer bars.  Now, every establishment can get a piece of the action.  Breweries and wholesalers know the value of direct sales and they now devote greater resources to promoting beer events in bars and restaurants, ranging from simple on-premise tastings to six-course beer dinners.  You don’t have to handle the details all yourself.  Contact your local brewery or wholesaler to gauge their interest.  Check out The Map Room’s Beer School or the Brickskeller’s popular education series for more ideas.

With a little time and effort, you can hopefully advocate for beer and raise your sales at the same time.  Beer lovers will be sure to tip accordingly.

–Article appeared in the April 2007 issue of BeerAdvocate Magazine.

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