Crafting New Challenges for Beer in 2008…

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Fast on the heels of another highly successful year, the American craft beer industry is gearing up for another profitable year and the challenges that accompany success. As the segment continues its development from a tiny niche to a legitimate force in the beverage alcohol marketplace, craft brewers are increasingly coming to grips with the changing realities of their improved prospects. With the big brewers showing a renewed interest in the category and the recently announced merger of Redhook Ale Brewery and Widmer Brothers Brewing, 2008 is shaping up to be the year when craft brewers, both large and small, solidly enter adulthood.

Anheuser-Busch ‘Crafts’ A Better Beer

In the months of December and January, football fans across the country were introduced to a familiar face, but with a new shtick. The television advertisements showed various Anheuser-Busch employees touting the quality of Michelob and its grand history, tradition, and reputation for quality. The ad’s focus then surprisingly shifted from the standard Michelob lager to the brewery’s less familiar ‘family’ of Michelob brands. The ad featured the Michelob Porter, Pale Ale, and Hefeweizen and again heralded their quality. The ad ends with the campaign’s new tagline, ‘crafting a better beer.’

My initial reaction was admittedly one of mild shock. While I had read the standard industry announcements that routinely precede such television releases, the audacity of this particular ad is something to behold and signals an odd note of acceptance by America’s largest brewer. The television ad, part of Anheuser-Busch’s $30 million campaign to rejuvenate the ailing Michelob brand, was a low key, exploitation free promotion of the flavor and heritage of the Michelob brand. The ad is also the brewery’s latest attempt at fighting back against the gains of brewers in the better beer segment.

Beyond the unmitigated gall that it takes to co-opt the hard fought name and message of the craft brewing movement, the television spot also closely mimics the successful ads released in 2007 by the Boston Beer Company. Those ads, which often feature founder Jim Koch and his team of brewers talking passionately about their beers and smelling baskets of fresh hops, helped the Samuel Adams brand gain tremendous strength last year, which in turn drove greater growth amongst all craft brewers. In Anheuser-Busch’s knock-off spot, a brewer smells the malt and talks about Michelob’s traditions and dedication to brewing flavorful beers. The campaign goes far beyond merely releasing beer after new beer and hoping one sticks. It is a celebration of flavor, quality, and better beer. To stop and think about the ad’s tagline, ‘crafting a better beer,’ leads football fans and other viewing consumers to necessarily inquire, ‘Better than what?’ The only answers a viewer can be left with are Budweiser and Bud Light.

One member of the Michelob brand family that does not appear in the ad is Michelob Ultra, the company’s former low carbohydrate sales golden boy. In response to the news of the new campaign, one company executive told Advertising Age that the disassociation was a conscious decision. “You’re going to see us reduce the reliance on the name Michelob with Ultra, maybe even to the point of taking it off the packaging down the road,� the executive said. Regardless of whether the campaign, which again finds Anheuser-Busch trying to promote Michelob as a connoisseur’s brand, actually increases Michelob’s sales, the overall message is clear. Craft brewers have succeeded in changing the nature of the game and they need to be ready for the effects of greater corporate interest in their profitable category.

A Fight Of A Different Kind

After months of speculation, the Bell’s Brewing Company of Kalamazoo, Michigan, recently confirmed that it intended to return to the Chicago area market with two ‘new’ brands in early December. As part of a small, initial test run, the brewery shipped its ‘new’ Kalamazoo Amber Ale to six bars in the Chicago area. Now I use ‘new’ because Bell’s is using this limited release to test the waters of Illinois distribution and franchising law with these brands. Formerly doing business as the Kalamazoo Brewing Company, the brewery stopped shipping beer to Illinois one year ago because of a dispute with National Wine & Spirits, the company that has the rights to distribute Bell’s Beer in Illinois. The brewery’s brands, long a fixture in Chicago’s better beer taverns, disappeared from the market after owner Larry Bell decided to end his relationship with NWS, which acquired the rights to the brand after Bell’s former distributor was purchased.

Bell founded his brewery as a home-brewing supply shop in 1983, with the first pint going across the bar in 1985. He has grown his brewery from a tiny, one-man operation with a production of 135 barrels in 1986 to more than 90,000 barrels in 2007. After a substantial recent expansion, which now covers 60,000 square feet of space in Comstock, Michigan, the brewery now boasts 140,000 barrels of brewing production.

The case is consequential because it raises several important legal questions about the legitimacy of state franchise laws which appear to restrict a brewery’s rights to switch distributors. Some in Illinois argue that the laws should be interpreted to allow for a brand to return after a year’s absence from the market, while others interpret the dense code to prohibit the transfer of brands to another wholesaler without the agreement of both parties.

With his return, Bell is trying a backdoor approach. He says that he has released three new beers specifically for the Chicago market that are not subject to the prior distribution agreement. The new beers, offered under the Bell’s Brewery name, will include the Kalamazoo Porter, the Kalamazoo IPA, and the Kalamazoo Royal Amber Ale. The labels read, “Brewed especially for the people of the great state of Illinois.� To some, including the distributor’s lawyers, it may appear that these new releases look similar to the Bell’s Porter, IPA (or Two Hearted IPA), and Amber, all products that were once popular in the Chicago market. Whether the new beers and their flavors bear any similarity to the old beers will likely be subject to many glass clinking debates.

The Stakes Are Not Always So High

The husband and wife owners of one of Maine’s oldest microbreweries, the Bar Harbor Brewing Company, recently announced their plans to sell their business to a Florida-based advertising executive. The sale of the brewery, which produces the award-winning Cadillac Mountain Stout and Thunder Hole Ale beers, is expected to close in early 2008. The new owner, Evan Contorakes, is the Chief Executive Officer of the Ronin Advertising Group of Miami, Florida, and also owns the Parkside Restaurant in Bar Harbor. Tod and Suzi Foster, present owners of the brewery, will retain a consulting role for one year following the sale in order to aid in the transition of the brewery.

The Fosters founded Bar Harbor Brewing in 1990 from the basement of their area home. While living in California, the couple sat front row center for the early days of the microbrewing movement. Tod took up homebrewing while a student at UC-Santa Barbara and the Fosters traveled throughout the state visiting new breweries as they opened. After moving to Suzi’s hometown of Bar Harbor, the couple would talk about Tod’s idea for opening his own brewery. He knew Bar Harbor had a huge tourist industry and that anything with the town’s name stenciled on it sold quickly as souvenirs. He discussed the idea with his wife so often that one day Suzi just looked at him and asked him whether he was actually going to do anything about it.

From the beginning, Tod knew that he wanted to run a very small operation, called a cottage brewery, where he would handle the brewing and Suzi would run the business. On a return trip to California, the Fosters met with several brewery and pub owners to get a sense of what they’d need to accomplish their goal. The couple almost decided against opening their own place after repeatedly being told they would need nearly $400,000 of startup capital to succeed. After securing a small two-barrel Pierre Rajotte brewing system, Tod created the first batches of his flagship Thunder Hole Ale. When the beer proved popular, the Fosters eventually moved from their cramped, 150-square foot basement a new house on two and a half acres a few miles outside of town. The new owner plans to move the brewery, which presently covers 850-square feet of the Foster’s basement, to a store front in downtown Bar Harbor. The new space will include the brewing facilities and a tasting room for tourists.

Comments by Contorakes to the local newspapers show that he has great plans for the little brewery. While the Fosters had trouble maintaining the brewery’s 325 barrel production, Contorakes plans to catch up with local demand and then expand the brand “up and down the East Coast,� as he told the Mount Desert Islander. Contorakes’s bold plans also include taking the small, little known brand to a national audience. “I guarantee there’s a national pipeline we could put this into,� he told the local newspaper. “People around the country are always looking for these microbrews.� To achieve these goals, Contorakes says that he will likely contract with a larger brewer for off-site production of Bar Harbor Brewing’s brands.

The Rise, Fall, and Possible Rebirth of Another Local Brewery

In its short existence, the Concord Brewery has seen some very tough times, bouncing between four different names, a succession of new owners, and a handful of homes.
The brewery’s accountant, David Asadoorian, purchased the brewery in 2003 from the former brewer, renamed it the Concord Brewery, and relocated operations to the old Brewery Exchange complex in Lowell. Despite the change in environs, the brewery struggled under Asadoorian’s ownership. The brewery’s once-popular Concord and Rapscallion brands never grew beyond their local following in Lowell and the quality of the beer, in the marketplace and at the adjacent pub, also suffered.

A new chapter in Concord’s complicated history is presently being written and it looks pretty similar to previous pages, with new owners, a name change, and a change in location. The brewery has been sold to Peter and Cedric Daniel, who plan to change Concord’s name to Rapscallion. The new owners plan to decamp to Milford, New Hampshire, where the company’s brands will be brewed under contract by the Pennichuck Brewing Company.

Developed as a personal artisanal project by former brewer Dann Paquette, the Rapscallion line has perhaps been the brewery’s most visible project and was a pioneering brand that pushed the definitional boundaries of ‘beer.’ Born in the spirit of beers that are intentionally different from batch to batch, the Rapscallion line of beers defied the notion that consistency in flavor profile is the brewer’s only goal. The three early Rapscallion brands, named Blessing, Creation, and Premier, varied in consistency and flavor from batch-to-batch, but were widely lauded by beer enthusiasts.

The new brewery’s first release will be the Concord Extra Pale Honey Ale, rebranded as the Rapscallion Honey Ale. The new owners expect to resurrect other beers from both the Concord and Rapscallion lines.

The brewery’s troubles show that a rising tide in the craft brewing segment does not necessarily translate to an increase in sales. The company’s shift from a local brewery with a solid native customer base to a brewery in Lowell with no ties to the community has wreaked havoc on the brand’s growth prospects. On the rebranded brewery’s website, the new owners joked about the company’s troubled history. “Maybe you never understood why a beer brewed in Lowell, MA went by the name of Concord. Well, we didn’t either.�

In light of the segment’s continued growth and the increased profitability of better beer (craft beer now accounts for more than five-percent of total beer sales in the United States), smaller brewers should expect that their once unnoticed industry will continue to meet with new challenges and the renewed interest of deep-pocketed competitors.

–Article appeared in April 2008 issue of Beverage Business Magazine

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Everyone Is (Unfortunately) Irish On St. Patrick’s Day…

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So that time of year is upon us once again, the time when imbibing throngs pack into bars, throw on giant, foam hats, and clink mugs of green beer in celebration of, well, something. Perhaps a greater perversion than even the American fascination with and celebration of Cinco de Mayo, St. Patrick’s Day is an opportunity for wild, unabashed revelry among the masses and for big breweries to haul in the cash.

Miller and St. Pat’sI live in Boston and St. Patrick’s Day is a thing of legend here. As a well-known Irish enclave, Boston plays hosts to more than its fair share of prefabricated, soulless, faux-Irish pubs. These places, with such thoughtful, traditional Gaelic names as The Purple Shamrock, are difficult to appreciate even on a slow weekday. Come the 17th of March, and the bars transform into some of the least hospitable places on the beer drinking planet.

Now I don’t begrudge anyone a day or two a year to let loose but this particular holiday, along with Cinco de Mayo, has always felt pretty forced to me, especially in Boston. Quick, tell me three things you know about the man known as Naomh Pádraig. Admit it, the only thing you could come up with was the snake thing. And when you think of Cinco de Mayo, you think of the day that Mexicans won their freedom. You and millions upon millions of others would be wrong on both counts. But why let a little history, or legend, get in the way of a few pints, right?

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St. Patrick’s Day comes early to Boston, with the big brewers’ paper shamrock laden paraphernalia being taped to the walls of bars weeks in advance. And herein lies my real problem with the holiday (and Cinco de Mayo as well), namely its exploitation by big American breweries. Despite its ownership by London-based global behemoth Diageo (which is rumored to be closing Guinness’s historic and famous St. James Gate brewery in Dublin), I’ll give a pass to Guinness, which sells an estimated 13 million pints of the now-rubyish beer every March 17. But because American breweries, with no ties to Ireland or Irish history (the diluted histories of the big guys are all German), see a chance to sell a lot of beer, we get paper shamrocks haphazardly stuck to bar room walls.

So what to do on St. Patrick’s Day? Given the dearth of quality Irish beers (O’Hara’s Stout being a rare example), a few years back I recommended an exploration of Scottish-style ales out of spite. Seeing as Patrick was himself born in Roman Britain, and not Ireland, that recommendation seems sound today. So as I think about how a historic metaphor involving snakes and religion can spawn so wildly out of control, I’ll be drinking beer made by some Scottish descendants at the Dunedin Brewery in Florida.

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Miller Lite Surpasses Budweiser As Second Most Popular American Beer Brand

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There are several interesting stories buried beneath the surface of the recent numbers release from Information Resources Inc. (IRI). Compiling statistics from a data set that includes more than 15,000 grocery and convenience store retailers around the United States, IRI’s releases offer a picture of how the larger industry players, including the biggest craft brewers, are performing at any given time. I’ll write a short piece in the near future about IRI’s 2007 stats on the craft beer industry, but it is the macro numbers that caught my eye.

According to the release, which documents sales in these outlets during 2007, the top 15 beer brands accounted for more than 63-percent of sales in the United States. Of these brands, Bud Light remains the dominant brand, with nearly $1.3 billion in sales in 2007, a 3.2-percent increase. The surprising part came with the revelation of the second best-selling brand (in terms of dollar sales): Miller Lite, which enjoyed more than $670 million in sales, a 3.4-percent increase. Rounding out the top three was the dethroned King of Beers, Budweiser, with $636 million in sales, a 3.7-percent decrease.

Now there are a lot of variables and unknowns (at least for me without access to further numbers) at play here, including volume totals and sales in other channels, but as grocery and convenience stores comprise a significant percentage of total beer sales (IRI’s website suggests that beer sales in package/liquor stores make up only 10-percent of its total sales), this is a big advancement for Miller ‘s rejuvenated Lite brand. It’s also a sign of the continued strength of the light beer segment.

IRI’s numbers for the industry’s largest craft beer players are also almost uniformly excellent (with the exception being A-B’s partner, Redhook).

All data is for the 52-week period ending December 30, 2007.

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Michelob Co-opts Craft’s Cool…

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While watching my hometown Chicago Bears drop a heart breaker to the New York Giants, I had my first chance to watch Anheuser-Busch’s newest attempt to fight back against the gains of the better beer segment. The television ad, part of A-B’s $30 million campaign to rejuvenate the ailing Michelob brand, was a low key, T&A free promotion of the flavor and heritage of the Michelob brand. The ad shows an interview with a brewer who talks about Michelob’s tradition and its high quality ingredients. Then, somewhat surprisingly, the focus shifted from the standard Michelob lager to the less familiar ‘family’ of Michelob brands. The ad featured the Michelob Porter, Pale Ale, and Hefeweizen and heralded their quality. The ad ends with the campaign’s new tagline, “crafting a better beer.”

My first response was, ‘wow, did that just happen?’ Beyond the fact that the ads seem to unapologetically steal from Boston Beer’s successful line of television ads (focus on quality ingredients and the passion of the brewers), the brewing giant’s co-option of the name of craft beer is both brazen and a sign of acceptance. The campaign goes far beyond merely releasing new beers and hoping one sticks, it is a celebration of flavor, quality, and better beer. Think about that, better beer. ‘Better than what’ a savvy, regular beer drinker might ask after watching the ad. The only answers a viewer can be left with are Budweiser and Bud Light.

One member of the Michelob brand family that does not appear in the ad is Michelob Ultra, the company’s former low carb, sales golden boy. One A-B executive told Advertising Age that the disassociation was a conscious decision. “You’re going to see us reduce the reliance on the name Michelob with Ultra, maybe even to the point of taking it off the packaging down the road,” the executive said.

Regardless of whether the campaign, which again finds A-B trying to promote Michelob as a connoisseur’s brand, actually increases Michelob’s sales, the overall message is clear. Craft brewers have changed the nature of the game.

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Here’s To Beer: The Tom Shipley Interview

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Beer taking a backseat to wine in terms of consumer preference? Not a chance brewers thought. But when the Gallup Organization released its annual alcohol consumption report in July 2005, American’s brewers were dumbstruck. For the first time in the poll’s history, wine edged out beer as the selected drink of choice. This trend had been on the rise, but the results were still shocking. Newspapers and magazines used the news to take a swipe at brewers and to herald the death of beer.

Executives at Anheuser-Busch decided the industry needed to address beer’s sudden public image problem. With 50-percent market share, the brewery has a lot to lose if beer continued to slide in terms of customer preference. In response, the brewery created and launched a highly publicized effort designed to elevate public opinion and appreciation of beer. The ‘Here’s To Beer’ campaign debuted in February 2006 with a Super Bowl ad. Sponsored in conjunction with the Beer Institute, the ‘Slante’ ad showed beer drinkers clinking glasses and offering toasts in a multitude of locations and languages.

Nearly a year later, many industry observers wondered aloud about the future of the campaign. Shortly thereafter, A-B implemented the second phase of Here’s To Beer. In March 2007, the HTB website was overhauled, with web video added as well as an interactive educational component called ‘The Beer Connoisseur.� The campaign also recently released American Brew, a documentary on the history of American brewing by filmmaker Roger Sherman.

For the rest of the beer industry, the Here’s To Beer campaign has been slowly building grassroots industry support by way of its point-of-sale materials offered on HTBmarketing.com. As part of HTB’s second phase, A-B is hoping to secure greater industry support with this campaign, which allows wholesalers, distributors, and retailers of all affiliations to create customized print ads for local newspapers and signs and other promotional materials for accounts. According to A-B, more than 300 wholesalers have signed on to the program so far.

I recently spoke with Tom Shipley, director of Global Industry Development at Anheuser Busch, about the second phase of the Here’s To Beer campaign, its cool reception among other brewers, and about the campaign’s effort to secure greater industry involvement for their goal of elevating the public’s perception of beer.

Andy Crouch: To start, why don’t you tell us a little about how the Here’s To Beer campaign got started.

Tom Shipley: That would go back to the end of the summer in 2005. All of 2005 and at the end of 2004, there were lots of negative stories in the general media about beer. We sort of hit this perfect storm of slight declines in share of total alcohol coupled with a Gallup Poll, which we could argue with Gallup on the validity of that poll. They polled a thousand people that summer of 2005 and about four-hundred of them said they were underage or didn’t drink, so then they had a pool of about six-hundred people. Then they asked the six-hundred people who were left, ‘What form of alcohol do you prefer?� It was widely touted by Gallup, ‘Now more people prefer wine to beer.� You and I both know the reality of that. People behave one way and might have an attitude another way. So there was an opportunity to work on people’s attitudes. Too many of those six hundred people thought the correct answer was wine even though their behavior indicated that two out of three of them were more likely beer drinkers.

We saw an opportunity to address that, to set the record straight about the sheer size of the beer category and to remind them that it is 57 or 58-percent of total alcohol. But also to set the record straight because that Gallup Poll, some declines, as well as some pretty aggressive PR by the hard liquor industry started to drive a lot of media stories. One was even on the cover of the Advertising Age. It was a gravestone that said ‘Beer R.I.P’ and the headline was ‘Beer is Dead.’ That really motivated us to action.

August Busch IV asked my boss Bob Lachky to put together a group that would be focused on the beer category from a PR and ad perspective, which we got to with the rollout of the Super Bowl commercial in 2006. And to get aggressive with industry groups and constituents that we identified as influencers. We’ve done speeches to the usual suspects, the Brewers Association and the Beer Institute and state wholesaler groups across the country, but also to academic groups across the country, press clubs, and any media we can get an audience with. We talk about the size of the category, to set the record straight and also the variety and styles of beer and how well they pair with food.

The overall objective is to elevate and enhance the image of beer and it’s evolved into a pretty powerful platform. We’ve been pleased with the response from the craft community and from other brewers. Now in the beginning there was some things about who is supporting the campaign and who is not supporting it. I think that by and large everybody supports it but it just depends on how you define support. If support is sending a check to Anheuser-Busch to help fund this thing, nobody supports it. If support is activating the press with the materials we have on HTB marketing, I think we have support from about 300 beer wholesalers and brewers outside of our A-B system.

AC: I read an interview recently in which Bob Lachky [A-B’s Executive Vice President of Global Industry Development] said that the brewery was looking to “go it alone� on the campaign. Can you talk about the early days of the HTB initiative and what efforts were undertaken to get other industry players on board?

TS: In the earliest days, we took a hard look at other industry campaigns, such as ‘Beef, it’s what’s for dinner,’ ‘Pork, the other white meat,’ ‘the Incredible, Edible Egg,’ and ‘Got Milk?’ All of those things are check-off programs, which basically mean that all the dairy and beef producers contribute a certain amount of pennies per pound or gallon of milk they sell and it goes into a big fund. That’s how those are funded. Looking back, maybe it was a little naïve to think, ‘Hey, why don’t all of us throw into this fund and we’ll put the people behind it to run the campaign?’ We did that through the Beer Institute. It was successful in that the Beer Institute, through a vote of all its members, said it would support the first Super Bowl ad through the perspective of PR, press conferences, and media outreach. It was something that through the Beer Institute we support. Beyond that, where we went in to have everything contribute money or convert some of our media—that’s where, looking back, we decided to go it alone. Those that decided not to put money into it helped us make that decision. Then looking back, if you think about it, any kind of creative endeavor especially where it is advertising, the fewer number of decision points the more efficient the process is.

AC: I know there was some grumbling in the industry, and especially in the craft market, about Anheuser-Busch and its possible motives for doing an ad campaign like this. Are you at all disappointed that there hasn’t been more industry support?

TS: I agree with you that in the very beginning there was grumbling but I think the campaign has sort of proven itself to those that have criticized it. I haven’t heard anything from those critics in the last year…It’s telling that there hasn’t been any criticism. It’s really neat to read some of the threads lately from the Beer Advocate folks. There has been more than one that has said, ‘Well maybe they’re really trying to grow the pot.’ Disappointment is long gone and has been replaced with pride and validation in the campaign. We knew all along that it’s a campaign to elevate and enhance the image of beer. If a ‘critic’ says, ‘You’re just trying to grow the beer category because you guys have almost half the category’ we have to say, ‘Guilty as charged.’ That is true and we’re not really trying to hide that. It’s pretty public knowledge the share we have in total beer. I think it’s also telling that a big part of this campaign, you can see it in print and in television spots, is to educate people about the wide variety of beers. That includes beers of all different flavors, styles, and colors. The majority of what we sell, let’s face it, is in the American Lager and American Light Lager categories. But you’re seeing us really emphasize other categories and other styles. Part of the reason we’re doing that is to elevate and enhance beer…When you about what the average consumer thinks about wine, if you could take that average consumer twenty years ago they could probably tell you there are two types of wine: red wine and white wine. Now that average consumer may not know every specific geography and style but they certainly know there is more than just red and white wine.

AC: Tell me about how the American Brew movie project got started?

TS: That goes back to about the time when our group got started in the Fall of 2005. Ken Burns approached Anheuser-Busch, as I’m sure he approached other companies, looking for corporate sponsorship of his next major project…As we we’re in discussions about the sponsorship, we suggested it would be great to do a history or documentary on beer…Ken recommended his partner at Florentine Films, Roger Sherman. He has a rich body of work himself, an award-winning documentarian. We met Roger and quickly came to terms and commissioned a documentary about beer. The name of the project, who was interviewed, how the story was told was all in the editorial control of Roger. We gave him a lot of leeway and I think that comes through in telling the history of beer and the renaissance of beer today.

AC: I know the Here’s To Beer campaign also has an industry component.

TS: We’re going to continue to work internally, in the industry, to invite and encourage more people to get on HTBmarketing.com and download materials. Herestobeer.com and HTBmarketing.com essentially started at the same time in February 2006. Herestobeer.com had lots of traffic with a slow decline over the next eighteen months. It’s shot up again since we changed it and the numbers are going up. The numbers at HTBmarketing.com since the beginning have continued to increase and we’re seeing an increase in downloads. You can download point-of-sale materials and print it out to merchandise the category. The lowest hanging fruit there is for wholesalers to merchandise retail accounts or retailers to merchandise their own accounts with this beer themed point of sale, it’s not branded point of sale. It’s for accounts that historically have not wanted any beer advertising in their stores because it doesn’t have the image that fits with their store. When the wholesalers present them with the new materials with a different look, not branded and just about beer and beer styles, that is where they are getting a yes and getting the opportunity to merchandise accounts. People should get on HTBmarketing.com. All people have to do is tell us who they are and where they work and they get a username and password. They can then go ahead and find opportunities to use the materials.

For the campaign, the big push is to be more entertaining on Herestobeer.com. That will continue to change and inform and be more fun. Then there is this platform of pairing beer with food. It will help general consumers to understand that beer pairs with food in many cases better than wine pairs with food, but I guess we have to crawl before we walk.

–Article appeared in the July 2007 issue of Beverage Magazine.

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