It’s a running joke in the travel publishing industry that your product is out-of-date before it even hits the shelves. This time-tested maxim has again proven to be true when applied to The Good Beer Guide to New England. Published by the University Press of New England in May 2006, the guide has sold quite a few copies and been critically well-received. While a remarkable amount of the book’s content has stood the test of time, I’ve been compiling information to keep the book updated online (in anticipation of a second edition down the line). If you have any updates, please feel free to contact me with your information.
The craft breweries of New England, which for you New Yorkers is defined as the six states of the Northeast, excepting your own, have experienced impressive stability in turbulent times. Of the 96 breweries and brewpubs (counting chain operations only once) and 11 beer bars profiled, only two have closed shop (Franconia Notch, which the book noted was in the process of closing, and the Manchester location of the Hops brewpub franchise, which was a victim of a corporate bankruptcy). Two breweries have converted their production operations into contract brewing operations (Casco Bay Brewing and Concord Brewery). During the last two years, we’ve seen nine new beer destinations open. In Massachusetts, the following brewpubs opened for business: Pittsfield Brew Works (Pittsfield), Gardner Ale House (Gardner), Mayflower Brewing Company (Plymouth), Cody Brewing Company (Danvers), and John Harvard’s opened another location at the Jiminy Peak ski area (Hancock). Maine saw the creation of two new places, the Marshall Whaf Brewing Company (Belfast) and the Inn on Peak’s Island (near Portland). Each of the other New England states had one new opening: Southport Brewing opened a new location in Hamden (CT); Pennichuck Brewing in Milford (NH); and Stonecutters Brewhouse (VT). Another two breweries came and went in the time since the guide was published. We hardly knew Hornpout Brewing (VT) and the Whale Tail Brewpub (ME).
In the first edition of the guide, I limited my selection of Great Beer Bars to 11 places in New England. In so doing, I defined a ‘great beer bar’ as being “comprised of a combination of rarely achieved elements.” These places excelled in several crucial respects, including “extraordinary selection of craft beers, respect their clients in terms of keeping prices fair, hold events promoting craft beers (from beer dinners to brewer meet-and-greets), make craft beer key to their business, and also offer true character as pubs.”
By these hard-to-meet criteria, I would now add the following four places to round out the list as the “15 Great New England Beer Bars.”
-The Dirty Truth, Northampton, Massachusetts. Proprietor Daniel Lanigan has built a massive multi-tap destination in downtown Northampton to rival his sister pub, Amherst’s the Moan and Dove. The Dirty Truth doesn’t capture the attitude of the M&D but it does provide another worthy addition to the local nightlife and the Massachusetts beer scene.
-Ebenezer’s Pub, Lovell, Maine. Owner Chris Lively goes all out to provide the ultimate geek adventure for true beer enthusiasts deep in the Maine tundra. A big fan of Ebay, you’re likely to find a lot of unexpected offerings both listed on the menu and on reserve if you know to ask for them. Make sure to ask for Chris if you visit (he lives in the house attached to the bar).
-Cambridge Common, Cambridge, Massachusetts. The dedicated ladies who run Cambridge Common probably sponsor more beer events than any other beer bar in the Boston area. The tap lists often favor hard-to-find regional beers, including usually never seen offerings from Sebago and others.
-British Beer Company, multiple Massachusetts locations. A powerful influence for beer good on the south shore, the BBC locations have an even mix between imports and American craft beers. I had the opportunity to review the Walpole location last year.
Updates (as of February 20, 2008)
Chapter One: Connecticut
-Opened a new location in Hamden, CT
-While Steve Schmidt remains the brewmaster here, brewer Dave Weikel handles most of the day to day brewing at Cambridge House now. The owners at Cambridge House have been talking expansion for some time now, with some contract brewing at the new Thomas Hooker facility and an eye towards their own 15-20 barrel brewing system.
-The brewery has been rebranded as the Thomas Hooker Brewing Company. The owners moved from their former sketchy digs in Hartford to a new production facility in Bloomfield, Connecticut. In sad news, brewmaster Paul Davis left the brewery and is presently weighing exciting new projects in New Hampshire. There is a split opinion as to whether the Thomas Hooker line, which was developed by Paul, is being brewed to his original recipes and retains its quality. No word on whether the brewery’s namesake, a religious and colonial leader, approves of the company’s unfortunate “Get caught with a Hooker” ad tagline.
-Following a late 2007 bankruptcy for parent company Avado Brands, the company closed its Manchester, Connecticut location.
-Despite experiencing substantial fire damage to its roof in early 2006, Bru Rm is open for business.
Chapter Two: Maine
-Tod and Suzi Foster, the husband and wife owners of one of Maine’s oldest microbreweries, the Bar Harbor Brewing Company, recently announced their plans to sell their business to a Florida-based advertising executive. The sale of the brewery, which produces the award-winning Cadillac Mountain Stout and Thunder Hole Ale beers, is expected to close in early 2008. The new owner, Evan Contorakes, is the Chief Executive Officer of the Ronin Advertising Group of Miami, Florida, and also owns the Parkside Restaurant in Bar Harbor. The Fosters will retain a consulting role for one year following the sale in order to aid in the transition of the brewery.
-Maine Coast is no longer brewing but it is not clear that this will remain the case permanently.
-Sebago is no longer brewing at its pub locations. The enterprise’s entire brewing operation has been moved to its production brewery.
-There is word that Geoff Houghton is working on a new pub in Gorham, Maine. No location or opening timeline has yet been set
-Owner Andy Hazen’s son Ben is thankfully back from Iraq and brewing alongside his dad at the tiny barn brewery.
-Head brewer Jason Perkins and his crew have a new toy: the first American koelschip, a flat, open Belgian vessel used in spontaneous, airborne fermentation.
-Casco closed its production plant and now contract brews at Shipyard Brewing in Portland
-Rocky Bay has closed its operation and stopped brewing.
New in Maine
-Located in Belfast, Maine, the brewers at Marshall Wharf are brewing on the system formerly operated by the Rocky Bay Brewing Company. Opened in Fall 2007 near the water on, of course, Marshall Wharf, the brewery’s beers are available at the nearby 3 Tides Restaurant, 2 Pinchy Lane, Belfast, Maine.
Chapter Three: Massachusetts
-Brewer Ben Roesch has left Nashoba. I have heard no news of who replaced him and whether the brewery continues to operate and distribute beer.
-Beer Works has experienced a tremendous amount of change since the Guide was published. Co-founder Steve Slesar, who was widely considered the beer guy at Beer Works, sold his share of the business to his brother Joe. Fenway brewer Jodi Andrews has decamped to the Stoudts Brewing Company in Pennsylvania. Salem brewer Scott Houghton left Beer Works in late 2007 and was replaced by brewer Mike Roy, formerly of Milly’s. Beer Works also opened a tap room at Boston’s Logan Airport in Terminal C, which offers 8 to 10 beers brewed at the Salem Beer Works locations. Beer Works plans to open a second Logan location in March 2008. As per usual, there is also talk that Beer Works will open a series of new brewpubs in other parts of New England. No definite plans have been made on this front yet.
-After months of planning and discussions, Boston Beer decided not to build a new brewery in Freetown, Massachusetts. After negotiating and accepting tax incentives and purchasing a plot of land, the brewer of Samuel Adams beers sent a letter to officially end its relationship with Freetown on the $200 million brewery plan. Boston Beer also announced plans to buy an existing brewery in Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania, from Diageo North America, for $55 million. The brewer plans to spend another $50 million to renovate the plant and will start brewing there in summer 2008. Boston Beer wrote off $3.4 million in capital investments, including engineering, for development of the Freetown property.
-Assistant brewer Megan Parisi has joined the staff.
-Harvard Square brewer Geoff DeBischopp left John Harvard’s after completing his MBA. His replacement is former assistant, Jason Taggart. Tim Morse left the Framingham location, whose head brewer is now Maria Poulinas.
-Opa Opa is experiencing substantial growth and has started distributing its beers in growlers, six-packs, and kegs as far away as Boston. The team also opened the Brewmasters Tavern in Williamsburg, Massachusetts. Starting in March 2008, the Williamsburg location also serves as a big brewery for the company
-For such a picturesque location and a shiny new brewing system, the Tap can’t seem to keep a brewer for more than a few months. Since the Guide was published, Dann Paquette left for a brewing job in England, Stephen Bernard took over and then left for the Three Floyd’s Brewing Company in Indiana, Mike Labbe, formerly of Concord and Pennichuck, quickly came and went, and he has been replaced by a team of three brewers, Dave Wilson, Jason Carroll, and Jon Curtis.
-After years of toiling in the cramped environs of its downtown location, Cape Cod’s owners moved their brewing system to new digs in Hyannis. The brewery, which recently received shipment of seven new tanks (including a 30 barrel fermentation tank), is located at 1336 Phinney’s Lane in Hyannis. Cape Cod’s retail portion is open Monday through Friday, noon to 6 pm, and Saturdays from 11 am to 2 pm, with tours at 1 pm.
-Mike Labbe, formerly of Concord, left for Pennichuck, The Tap, and then Milly’s. Owner David Asadoorian sold the brewery to new owners, Peter and Cedric Daniel, who have changed both the brewery’s name (to Rapscallion Brewing) and its location (to Pennichuck in Milford, NH).
-Cisco has opened a taproom, called the Cisco Brew Pub, at Boston’s Logan Airport.
-Matthew Steinberg has left to open the now running Mayflower Brewing Company in Plymouth, Massachusetts. He has been replaced by brewer Joe Cleinman.
-Run by the same owners, the brewery has been rebranded as the Pioneer Brewing Company. The brewery still produces a line of Hyland beers along with its own new line of Pioneer beers.
New in Massachusetts
-I have not heard whether there is any brewing occurring on premise or whether the chain ships in beer from its other locations.
-Located on a somewhat rundown strip in downtown Gardner, Massachusetts, the Gardner Ale House brings a much needed eating and drinking establishment to the area.
-Opened by Drew Brosseau and Matthew Steinberg, formerly of Offshore Ales, Mayflower is located in Plymouth, Massachusetts. The brewery specializes in producing English style ales and will be a much needed addition to the brewery starved South Shore region.
-Formerly a brew on premise operation, Cody now brews and serves a handful of beers at 62 Maple Street in Danvers.
-On the Commonwealth’s westernmost flank, the Pittsfield Brew Works is a strong addition to the New England brewpub scene. Opened right after the Guide went to press, the pub was originally slated to open as the Black Sheep Brewpub. Legal problems with the name led to the much simpler and to the point moniker. Run by Christine Bump and Bill Heaton, who formerly brewed for Victory Brewing in Pennsylvania. The pair brew on a five barrel Peter Austin system and produce a range of interesting beers. Located at 34 Depot Street, Pittsfield, Massachusetts, the pub is open Sunday,Tuesday,Wednesday from 4 pm to midnight, Thursday, Friday, Saturday from 11 am to midnight, and is closed on Mondays.
Chapter Four: New Hampshire
-As was reported in the Guide, Franconia Notch has stopped brewing after the plot of land it was on was sold to a developer, reportedly to build a Walgreens.
-Mike Roy has left Milly’s for Salem Beer Works in Massachusetts. His replacement is Mike Labber, former head brewer at the Concord Brewery, Pennichuck Brewing, and at The Tap in Haverhill.
-Assistant brewer Jay Thompson has moved over to the brewpub’s sister operation, the Smuttynose Brewing Company.
-The brewery has experienced several false starts, both in Portsmouth and nearby Newington, in its efforts to secure a bigger production location. Owner Peter Egelston is threatening to move the operation across the water to nearby Kittery, Maine.
New in New Hampshire
-Owner Phil Jewett started the operation with substantial help from journeymen brewer, Mike Labbe. After Labbe departed Pennichuck for a stint at The Tap, Jewett replaced him with Damase Olson. Pennichuck also serves as a production brewery for other contract operations, including the recently formed Rapscallion Brewing Company.
Chapter Five: Rhode Island
Chapter Six: Vermont
-Rumor has it that Ray McNeill is actually in the process of opening his new production brewery. While its perhaps the longest standing rumor in the New England brewing scene, I have seen pictures and even a local newspaper article that appear to confirm the rumor. No word on when the actual brewery will come online and whether it will have a real bottling line not run by children…
-Despite rumors of a takeover by a major brewery, founder and president Andy Pherson left the company and sold his shares to other private investors.
-JT Tierney has left the brewpub.
-Brewer Shaun Hill left the Shed to come and take over the operations at Trout River. Shaun is now on his way to a year long brewing fellowship at a brewery in Denmark and founder Dan Gates will resume the brewing duties.
-Owners Tim and Sally sold the fantastic inn and brewery they lovingly restored to Joe and Jill Lavin in 2006. The Lavins discovered the property as customers of the Inn while visiting their son, a graduate of Dartmouth College. Joe is a long time Hospitality Industry executive with such companies as Marriott, Westin and Choice Hotels. Brewer Patrick Dakin took over the beer operations from Tim.
-Brewer Shaun Hill left the Shed and eventually took a job with the Trout River Brewing Company, before leaving to work for a brewery in Denmark.
-The owners never did rebrand the brewpub as the Angry Gnome. There is also word on some professional brewing sites that the brewpub is for sale.
New in Vermont
-For a place that has been open less than a year, Stonecutters has experienced some really traumatic troubles. After brothers Bud and Jason Stevens opened their new brewpub as the Granite City Brewing Company, they received a cease-and-desist letter from attorneys representing Granite City Food and Brewery, a publicly traded company that operates a chain of brewpubs in the Midwest. After weighing their options, the brothers wisely decided to rebrand the brewery to avoid a costly lawsuit. After conducting a contest with its customers, the brothers announced the new name: Stonecutters Brewhouse. End of problems, right? Nope. After ordering a new sign, etched beer glasses, and t-shirts branded with the new name, the brothers learned that another investor group had registered the “Stonecutter’s Pub and Brewery” name with the Vermont Secretary of State. No word on whether the brothers will change the brewpub’s name again. Again, not the end of the story. The brewpub suffered a devastating kitchn fire on Veteran’s Day, which closed the restaurant until Mid-January 2008. Amazingly enough, the brothers still plan to open a production brewery as well in the future, although the designated summer 2008 timetable seems very unlikely. Stonecutter’s (or whatever it will be called) is located at 14 North Main Street, Barre, Vermont, and is open 11 am to 9 pm Monday through Thursday and 11 am until late on Friday and Saturday
11 Great New England Beer Bars
-After opening the Dirty Truth pub in downtown Northampton, proprietor Daniel Lanigan is always rumored to be opening a new pub in the Boston area. No specific plans have yet been made.
-Owner Dave Ciccolo recently announced that he and his wife/partner Ailish Gilligan will open a high-end, gourmet food and beer store a block from his popular Washington Square pub. Scheduled for opening on March 1, 2008, the store will sell gourmet foods and 200 of the world’s finest beers at 1706 Beacon Street in Brookline. There is also news, not yet released, that Ciccolo will be opening a new barbeque restaurant in the same area.
